Saturday, May 2, 2009

Our first taste of the tropics



OK, lets back track for one moment here. The last post ended with Jenn and I arriving in Queensland. I missed a few moments along the way. When we came out of the outback we arrived in Townsville and then made our way up to Cairns.

As we drove over the low peaks of the Great Dividing Range, which separates coastal Australia from the Outback, we were suddenly immersed in a tropical paradise. Grassy scrubs became ancient rainforest filled with palms. We were very excited to explore the area. We decided our first stop would be at the Billabong Sanctuary just outside of Townsville. But it was getting late, so the Billabong Sancturay would have to wait for morning. We spent the evening swimming in the ocean with the world's most deadly creature, the box jellyfish. Luckily, there were special netted areas for swimmers. Although I later learned that the most deadly of the box jellyfish species, the Irukandji, is only about 2 cm in length. The netting protecting us from these deadly sea creatures appeared as if it would allow such a tiny animal to easily slip through. It's in situations like these that its best to leave your better judgement aside and just do as the locals do. So, into the ocean we went, greatly enjoying the 26 degree Celsuis plus water of the tropics. (Jenn's note: We were later informed that the locals don't swim in the ocean in Townsville, because the water is a murky brown. Made me think of Mooney's Bay in Ottawa, where the locals generally don't swim.)

The next morning, we awoke early and drove to the Billabong Sanctuary. Being the eager young tourists that we are, we were the first to arrive at the interactive zoo, so we each recieved a complimentary bag of seed with which to feed the animals. The Billabong Santuary was a wonderful experience. Many of the animals in the area are allowed to roam free, so Jenn and I were able to hand feed kangaroos, which was very enjoyable. During our time at the sanctuary, we also became aquainted with some more fearsome creatures - such as the saltwater crocodile (aka, "salties"). Watching the rangers feed these ancient killers is an incredible sight. But, the highlight of our time at the sanctuary was when we were allowed to hold the cuddly creatures. I held a Wombat and Jenn had the pleasure of holding a real live koala! (At the cost of AU$10/hold. They sure gouge tourists for money!) There are lots of pictures on the web albums, check them out.

As we drove north from Townsville, we decided to check out a few areas mentioned in our Lonely Planet travel guide (kindly leant to us by Chris and Laura). The first stop was Little Crystal Creek. We detoured a few kilometers off the main highway into the mountains. The further we drove from the coast and the higher we climbed, the more the rain came down. I had a white-knuckled death grip on the steering wheel as I drove our little rental Kia up the treacherous, winding, rain-slicked road. We arrived at the carpark for Little Crystal Creek in a torrential downpour. Luckily, within a few minutes there was a break in the rain. It was only a short walk from the car to an area under a bridge where several small waterfalls ran into rock pools. It was beautiful.

When we went down to the rock pool for a swim we met a group of local twenty-somethings from Townsville that used this area as their hangout. They were a great bunch of people and they showed us the best areas for jumping off rocks into the water. I pulled off a front flip from a rock that stood about 20 feet above the water. The Aussies were pretty impressed. After a few jumps into the water the rain came back, so we hung out with the Aussies under the bridge and talked for a while. They informed us that the area was notorious for flashflooding and that we should keep an eye on the waterfalls upstream for any sudden changes. It was around that point in time that we decided we should pack up our stuff and move on. (Jenn's note: swimming in Northern Queensland requires tourists to be quite attentive. Saltwater and freshwater crocodiles reside in stagnant water pools, and there are jellyfish in the ocean. Waterfalls with rock pools are usually safe, though - the crocodiles aren't fond of running water.)

Our next stop was a little further north and required another detour off the highway into the forests of the Great Dividing Range. Our destination was Wallaman Falls, Australia's highest single drop waterfall. When we arrived at the carpark, we walked to the lookout for the falls. The massive valley below us was filled by the sounds of water plunging more than 260 meters. Unfortunately, the valley was also full of clouds formed by the water vapour produced by the falls. We couldn't see a thing. So, we decided to take the walking trail down to the base of the falls to see if we could get a better look.

We soon came across a sign posted along the walking track that warned about the "stingy tree". The stingy tree is a small tree with non-threatening heart shaped leaves that happen to be covered in fine hairs. When touched, these fine hairs release a deadly neurotoxin that has the potential to paralyze or kill you. At the very least, brushing up against one of these trees would leave you with an experience of such severe pain you would be unlikely to forget it in this lifetime. I was curiously unphased by this warning sign. I think I was beginning to get in touch with the Aussie frame of mind: when everything in the country can kill you, it's not worth worrying about it.

When we arrived at the base of the falls, I was awestruck by the sight before us. Two hundred and sixty metres above our heads, the river lept from the side of a cliff and plunged into the valley below. Feeling the mist and wind from the falls against my skin was like a religious experience. Imagine seeing Niagara Falls without all the touristy garbage that litters the area. It was unbelievable. I have a video and several photos on the web album.

After the falls we drove north and arrived in Cairns. Our adventures there and beyond will be the subject of the next post.

G'day

1 comment:

  1. A g'mornin' to you; John and Jenn! Your descriptions allow me, the reader to experiance and be there with you. Very exciting. I look forward to the photos and of course your return...love Mom, Aspen and Lacie

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